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Today Nicolo was helping some fashion students shoot 3D objects in the studio so i went to the session in order to see how the studio is set up, how the lighting works and how to work the camera among other things. I found this a really valuable session and i stayed behind after and Nicolo showed me how to set up the lights and change the backdrops and i’ve booked a studio session for monday to try it out with my sets 🙂 I took around 6 pages of notes in this session and learnt alot of new terms and techniques and these are all noted below:

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  • choice of backdrop colours are black, grey and white
  • need to rent camera aswell as book studio “better camera, better images”
  • camera plugs into computer so that images are instantly transferred to the MAC screen, this is useful because you can see easily what adjustments to make
  • although this is useful, only trust the monitor to accurately show the framing and showing the direction of the light
  • it is best to zoom in on images on the camera to inspect the sharpness of the image
  • objects can look better suspended from clear invisible thread- doesn’t create a strong shadow underneath it and its strong shadows underneath that can pick up the texture of the paper backdrop
  • if you want stronger shadows, turn off the light one side and increase the power of it on the other side
  • backdrops are darker towards the back of the image
  • there’s a very long table in the studio where i can set up my compositions
  • looking at the lighting though it would be best for me to shoot scenes without walls, because walls will block out the light
  • though the backdrops do make the images look much cleaner and slicker
  • take lots of photos from different angles and perspectives
  • gets very hot in the studio!
  • shallow depth of field means the front of the image is in focus but other bits behind are blurry, the depth of field can be adjusted and lengthened so more is in focus.
  • if its too bright move the light further away, or switch off one side or adjust the power
  • more light= more depth of field
  • its better to shoot slightly brighter and then darken it using photoshop rather than the other way around
  • can be hard to remove all shadows without using too much light
  • when you change a lense DO NOT LET ANY DUST IN THE CAMERA OR LENSE- have lenses poised and ready to change quickly and carefully, also be careful when changing lense outside, its best to do it under cover
  • check settings on camera and set them to these: shutter speed should be 1/60, manual mode, aperture should have a higher  F number for a longer depth of field, image quality should be set to take a RAW image and a JPEG , white balance should be on automatic, to adjust the F number, use the AV+/- button and it should be ok set on about f11 but change it if i need more
  • Software to use is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom- open on the computer and connect the camera to the computer, open a folder on the desktop with my name on ready and go on File- Tethered capture to link the camera and programme
  • on the lights- if its too bright the “Stops” dial changes the power drastically, the “Tenths” dial changes its very gradually- its common to have to change both at the same time
  • the histogram chart shows accurate light levels, can be seen on camera or computer screen- dont let the histogram readings touch the right side of the graph because this means it too bright
  • its important where you place the object in comparison to the light
  • its better to use the tripod when you find the right angle
  • when editing images- edit them on an adjustment layer not on the background and save 2 copies- one with the layers separate so you can still edit ( a TIFF file) and one flattened image when you are really happy with it.

As you can see i found this session really helpful and i am happily looking forward to trying the studio out on my own monday 🙂

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